Step 3: Site preparation (and sealing tiles) top

Cleaning surfaces

Before starting any tiling job, the surface to which you apply the tiles must be cleaned. Wipe off excess dust, wash off any grease, scape off any paint, adhesives or varnish, hammer in protruding nails, and seal any holes/gaps in the floors or walls. Make sure the surface is solid and fixed, as any movement can cause tile breakage later on. Tiles are best applied to cement sheets or concrete slabs. Note: You may have to roughen the tiling surface if it's too glossy ie. laminates on benchtops.

Screeding and Self-levelling top

Screeding is the method of levelling the floor in order to create a fall. The fall ensures that water wouldn’t pond in any area (ie. allow for drainage). For example, a fall in a shower would direct the water to the waste outlet, a fall on an exposed balcony would ensure water doesn’t flow back into the house/apartment. The size of the fall will depend on the volume of water that will flow over the surface. For instance, a shower will require a bigger fall than a balcony. Self-levelling is the method of pouring a ‘self-levelling mixture’ over an uneven surface and allowing the liquid to flow into and fill up any depressions, hence making the floor even.

Waterproofing the surface being tiled top

Waterproofing protects the surface on which you lay the tiles. If a surface is not waterproofed, water on the tiles you lay can seep through to the layer underneath causing damage ie. seepage into a lower level apartment or underneath the house, and/or can cause wood rot/damp.

Sealing tiles top

Some tiles can be bought sealed which generally makes them more expensive. Most tiles however, are porous and in order to protect their surface i.e. avoid staining and the build up of residues, they are generally sealed with an acrylic sealant. Certain surfaces such as slate, require specialised sealant products, contact your distributor for advice.

Step 4: Establishing reference lines (tile layout) top

Floors

Walls

Always start laying the tiles from a fixed horizontal line drawn using a spirit level. Never assume that floors or ceilings are straight or that corners are at perfect 90 degree angles. Ensure that the row of tiles you lay end to end will finish with tiles requiring large cuts as its is much easier to cut a tile in half than cut a very thin strip of each tile at either end. You must always allow for spacing between tiles (for grout) and for sealants (in corners) to allow wall expansion and contraction.

Step 5: Laying tiles top

Floors

Place some adhesive on the floor with a spatula and spread the adhesive using a notched trowel. The label on the adhesive container will specify which size trowel to use. Hold the trowel vertically to the floor to spread the adhesive evenly. Spread enough adhesive to cover 1 square metre of floor space (at a time). Place the tiles on the adhesive as soon as possible and settle them into position with a slight twist, avoiding any air pockets. Use nylon spacing crosses to achieve even spacing and proper alignment of tiles. If the tiles are slightly uneven or vary in dimension, keep a straight line (using a string line) to keep the tiles aligned. Make sure no corners are protruding or raised. Clean off any excess adhesive.

Walls

Apply adhesive to the walls using a notched trowel as per manufacturer’s instructions, held at an angle to the wall. Do one square metre at a time and if the adhesive dries, scrape with the spatula and reapply fresh adhesive. Using a spirit level, periodically check that the tiling is level both horizontally and vertically. Cut any tiles as required, leaving a space at every corner ie. between the tiles and the ceiling, between the tiles and the floor and where the 2 walls meet.

Cutting around fixtures / accommodating for plumbing

Set the neighbouring tiles first, and use those to line up the tile you're marking. Make the cuts using tile nippers to avoid taking off more than you need. Cut straight lines with a tile cutter. There is no need to be too perfect as most plumbing fixtures come with escutcheons that'll cover up the rough edges. Apply to wall by buttering the adhesive to the back of the tile. After the tile adhesive is dry you can install the fixtures. Use masking tape to hold these pieces in place until the adhesive or silicone dries.

Step 6: Grouting top

Grouting is when a paste of fine sand and cement is used to fill the gaps between tiles bonding the entire surface. Always mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the grout into the gaps between the tiles using a rubber grouter completely filling the gaps and avoiding any air bubbles. Push the grout diagonally across the joints to force it down into the gaps. When completed, wipe off excess grout using a damp sponge. Note: Grouting porous tiles like slate, marble or terra cotta may leave grout in the tile causing it to look matted and dull. To prevent this, seal the tile before you lay it with a pre-sealer.

Step 7: Caulking top

After the grout has had a couple of days to set, you should caulk using a clear/coloured sealant that matches the grout/tiles. Caulking is done to allow for expansion of joints ie. between wall tiles and the ceiling, between wall tiles and the floor, between floor tiles & cupboards, and where the 2 walls meet. Fill the joints completely then smooth them out with a damp rag, an (round-edged) ice cream stick or your finger. Also caulk around plumbing valves, sinks and faucets to stop water penetration.

Step 8: Polishing top

In most cases tiles come polished,eg.standard ceramic glazed tiles.If the tiles requires polishing such as marble etc. there are two methods of polishing:
chimical (acid) and mechanical (disk polishers and buffing).

Step 9: Sealing Tiles and Grout top

You can seal the grout and/or you can seal the tile itself (provided your tile is not already sealed eg. glazed ceramic tile). Sealing will make the tiles/grout more water and mildew resistant, and help keep dirt out of the joints. Most manufacturers suggest you wait a week or so before doing this to give the grout a chance to set properly.

Sealing grout - Apply a silicone or water-based grout sealer to the joints. If you get some sealer on the tile’s surface, ensure you wipe it off before it dries. If you are using a porous tile, seal the tile first before applying the grout/grout sealer to prevent staining.

Sealing tiles - If you're using a porous material like slate, marble or terra cotta, you should seal the surface of the tiles to prevent them from getting stained with use. You'll have to reseal the tile occasionally as the sealer wears off. Don't use any cleaners with ammonia on the tile as this will remove the sealer.

Step 10: Tile Repair and Maintenance top

Whenever you tile be sure to save some tiles in case you ever need to replace a few, as it is almost impossible to buy a new tile to match an existing one.

Replacing Broken Tiles

To replace one or a small number of tiles, first remove the grout around it/ them. You can do this with a grout saw / a spatula or a utility knife. Shatter the broken tile into smaller pieces by hitting it with a hammer and chisel. (ie. don’t forget the safety glasses). Remove all pieces, and scrap off any grout / adhesives, being careful not to damage the surface below. Put enough adhesive on the back of the tile (buttering) so that the tile(s) sit level with the rest. Let the adhesive set before grouting.

Re-grouting and sealing tiles

Grout often cracks or becomes mouldy with time. If there is not enough grout between the tiles, water can pass through into the wall/floor below causing more damage. Tiles should also be periodically sealed to prevent any moisture penetration, especially in wet areas. Clean any affected surfaces and reapply sealant/grout (as above)